Katrine Levin’s mission is to discover extraordinary art from places that are less explored and for her, Tbilisi in Georgia is the perfect location to find rich experiences.

Are you looking for a city that your friends are yet to discover? One that is crammed with arts, culture and scenery that will take your breath away? May I suggest you travel to Tbilisi, Georgia. It is a trip that will leave you feeling good about yourself and optimistic about life in general. 

Straddling Europe and Asia, Georgia is home to Europe’s first hominids and perhaps more importantly its oldest grape seeds and boasts an 8,000-year-old winemaking tradition and legendary hospitality, one that you must experience for yourself. 

Moreover – art, literature, music, and creativity of all kinds is the heart blood of Georgia and an inextricable part of its history and identity, as can be seen in the many unique city sculptures and a plethora of museums, galleries, an annual art fair, an exciting fashion industry, innovative cuisine, and a hopping night scene.

Can you do 48 hours in Tbilisi, Georgia? Well, you’ll want to stay longer, but this is how to enjoy a short city break in Tbilisi.

Get Your Bearings 

Georgia is a country full of history, beauty, and warm welcome. Situated at a strategic crossroads of trade between East and West and perilously close to expanse of Turkey and Russia, this small and largely Christian country has been fought over for centuries, surviving Persian, Byzantine, Arab, Turkish, Mongol, Iranian, and Russian control while preserving its unique cultural identity.

Tbilisi is the obvious place to visit first. As Georgia’s capital city it reflects perfectly its long and complicated history with echoes of former invasions seen in its stunning and varied architecture. Tbilisi has a sub-tropical climate and I suggest visiting in September, when the weather is less humid but still warm and the famous grape harvesting season begins.

Georgian Airways has direct flights from London to Tbilisi for as little as £138 return; book in advance and check your schedule as they don’t fly every day. If you don’t mind a stopover, Turkish Airlines provides frequent flights through Istanbul.

In Georgia prices are often quoted in US dollars and Euros but only Lari – the local currency – is accepted. You can use your credit cards or withdraw Lari from any ATM or find one of the many currency exchanges which may offer better rates.

Getting Around 

Taxis are available but often not metered. Agree a price in advance or download Bolt or its Russian-run and in Georgia more reasonably priced equivalent, Yandex Go, which is what I tend to use.

There are Metro and buses but if you can, I recommend travelling by foot to get a feel for the city, especially through Old Town Tbilisi and the city’s main cultural and shopping artery, Rustaveli Avenue.

Where to Stay

If you’re visiting Tbilisi for 48 hours, I would recommend staying close to the Old Town and Rustaveli Avenue areas. It is a little more expensive than areas further away from the centre, but you’ll save time and taxi fees.

Depending on your taste and budget, there is the Biltmore Hotel Tbilisi on Rustaveli Avenue (£££); the Stamba (££££) and Rooms (£££) sister hotels on Merab Kostava St, and the reasonably priced and super convenient Moxy Tbilisi Hotel by Marriott (££) on Saarbrucken Square near the Dry Bridge art and antique open market.

All are good centrally located options, each with its own charm and character. Alternatively, check out Airbnb for centrally located flats.

A special mention about the sister hotels: The Rooms Hotel offers darkened ambiance amidst old wood panelling and traditional touches, replete with books and art; whereas across the street the new Stamba Hotel housed in a former printing press building offers uber-modern and light concrete spaces, likewise filled with books and art. Both hotels offer an excellent bar and restaurant, are a hot spot for an evening cocktail, and host music and art events.

If you are looking for somewhere more wallet friendly, then the area of Avlabari is around 20 minutes’ walk from the Old Town and has lots of options.

What do they speak in Tbilsi?

Georgian! Georgian is an ancient Kartvelian language, indigenous to the South Caucasus. With its distinct circular letters and unique sounds, it is one of the world’s oldest languages, dating back to 430AD. Try and learn a few words of Georgian which will always elicit a warm response from the locals.

Here are a few staples: “hello” (gamarjoba – გამარჯობა), “thank you” (madloba – გმადლობთ), and the absolutely vital when you’re in Georgia “cheers/to your health” (gaumarjos – გაუმარჯოს). In addition to Georgian, most of the younger generation speaks English whereas the older generation that has grown up under the Soviet Union before its fall in the 90’s speaks Russian.

What to do for 48 hours in Tbilisi

Start with a meal – depending on what time you arrive in the city; I suggest dumping your luggage and heading straight to one of the restaurants so you can not only taste the exquisite Georgian cuisine but also get your bearings and watch a bit of everyday life. 

Just about any place in Old Town Tbilisi, a pedestrian area with cobblestone streets and traditional wooden houses is a wise choice. The restaurant-lined Jan Shardeni street is a good bet. The cuisine here is more touristy (although all Georgian cuisine anywhere is good) but it’s worthwhile to take a seat, have a coffee or an aperitif, and take in the ambience. If you’re feeling peckish, try the khachapuri, Georgian signature cheese-stuffed bread, available in hundreds of regional varieties. For the hardier appetites, the Adjaruli Khachapuri (from the Adjara region) is an open-faced, boat-shaped bread stuffed with two types of cheese and served piping hot, topped with fresh egg yolk and a sizeable chunk of butter which cook and melt on top of the cheese. Good luck!

Shavi Lomi (££) is a great place to sample the colourful pkhali, a traditional Georgian dish made with chopped spinach or beets, herbs, and ground walnuts that are a staple ingredient in Georgian cooking. Served as colourful green or red balls of absolute delight this healthy dish is one of my all-time favourites.

Keto and Kote (£££), is perfect for a more upscale and leisurely lunch or an evening out. Located in an old quarter up a picturesque hill near Tbilisi’s central artery of Rustavelli, it offers incredible cuisine with a modern twist in a superbly picturesque setting. On a warm summer evening, request a table outside and watch the sparking lights of Tbilisi below you.

Reservations are a must and do reserve well in advance.

Fabrikahotel – this wallet-friendly and hip option is a multifunctional centre with bars and restaurants located in a yard inside an old Soviet era building.

About 15 minutes’ walk from Rustaveli Avenue is Giorgi Akhvlediani Street, well worth a stroll it offers a variety of cafes and restaurants, some spectacular architecture, and a pedestrian section.

Just about any restaurant you pick will offer you a great range of Georgian delicacies, such as: lobio (a popular dish made with kidney beans and the ubiquitous walnuts); khinkali (dumplings stuffed with meat in broth that are like Shanghai Dumplings but are much larger); churchkhela, a Georgian sweet made with grape juice and nuts and best in the Autumn when the grapes are harvested, and the grape juice is fresh.

And of course, don’t forget to sample the many fine wines Georgia has to offer, such as Tsinandali, Mukuzani, Kindzmarauli, and Tvishi many of which are traditionally aged in Georgia’s unique kvevri, large earthenware vessels that are buried underground.

Must Sees

Sulphur Baths: Legend has it that Tbilisi, which means “warm” in Georgian, was founded in the 5^th century by King Vakhtang I Gorgasali who having wounded a bird while hunting near the Kura river saw the animal revived by its healing waters and ordered a city to be built on its banks. Visitors can still experience the healing powers of the sulphur waters in the historic domed baths at the start of the city’s captivating Old Town.

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Old Town: The cobble stone streets of the pedestrianised Old Town are lined with restored Moorish houses adorned with traditional Persian balconies. Charming and innovatively designed cafes – some of which transform into hopping night spots as the sun sets – are a seamless blend of traditional and contemporary. In the centre of the Old Town is a much-loved bronze statue of a Tamada – the toastmaster – modelled after an ancient Colchian statuette. Also, not to be missed is the whimsical leaning Clock Tower, built in 2007-11 by the renowned Georgian puppeteer and writer, Rezo Gabriadze, flanked by his puppet theatre and a delicious cafe.

From the Old Town, walk through the Tbilisi Botanical Gardens with its lovely waterfall and views.

From there you can continue walking up through the ancient Narikala fortress overlooking Tbilisi towards the top of the Sololaki hill where you will find stunning views and a 20-metre aluminium figure of Mother Georgia (“Kartilis Deda” in Georgian). Built in 1958 by sculptor Elguja Amashukeli in honour of Georgia’s 1500^th anniversary, she is the symbol of Georgian character, welcoming friends with a bowl of wine in one hand and warning off enemies with a sword in the other.

If you don’t feel like an uphill walk, catch the Tbilisi Funicular located in Mtatsmida Park near Rustavelli Avenue and enjoy a scenic ride. If you choose to walk down Sololaki hill back to Mtatsmida Park, stop by the historical cemetery at the Pantheon along the way.

Dry Bridge: a short walk from the Old Town is the famed Dry Bridge art and antiques market, offering nostalgic objects from the Soviet Union era, from toys to teacups. You can spot a genuine antique if you know what to look for, but either way it is a fun place to explore and pick up a souvenir or two.

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Rustaveli Avenue: Named after the medieval Georgian poet, Shota Rustaveli, the avenue is the city’s main artery. Beginning at Freedom Square which dates back to 1918. It is a lively avenue full of cafes, restaurants and shops. Its impressive mix of Eastern Orthodox, Moorish, Soviet, Art Nouveau, and contemporary architecture includes the Parliament of Georgia, Georgian National Opera Theatre, Rustaveli Theatre, Georgian Museum of Fine Arts, and the Tbilisi Opera House.

The Georgian Museum of Fine Arts, a unique stone and glass contemporary building whose architecture echoes the arched colonnade of the Parliament building across the avenue, is one of the largest private museums of its kind.

Founded by collector Gia Jokhtaberidze, the museum houses 3,500 works by almost 800 artists from the founder’s private collection of Georgian contemporary art, including a room dedicated to one of my favourites – Georgia’s legendary Levan Lagidze.

The Tbilisi Opera House, home to both opera and ballet, is an extraordinary building. Founded in 1851, it was twice burned down and twice restored, emerging much like the rest of Georgia, with its identity intact. Its European exterior and the recently restored Moorish Revival interior it is a delight for the senses.

Paliashvili Street is named after Zakaria Paliashvili, a Georgian composer and the founder of Georgian classical music. This tree-lined street and surrounding area is known for boutique clothing shops, featuring innovative young designers.

One of my favourites is Co.Mode on neighbouring Irakli Abashidze street. The Lagidze Gallery, mentioned below, is at 23 Paliashvili Street.

The Jvari Monastery, located about 20 km north of Tbilisi in Mtskheta, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built atop mount Jvari at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, the monastery offers jaw dropping views and is a fine example of traditional Georgian architecture. Catch an Uber or Yandex or sign up for a tour – not to be missed.

Galleries

There is a plethora of options with many open-air art markets and traditional galleries. In the Old Town, check out shops selling the enamel jewellery and art for which Georgia is famous.

One of my favourite art galleries is the Old Town is the two-story Art Gallery Line on Bambis Rigi street, not least because it has works by two of my favourite artists, Mamuka Didebashvili and Maia Ramashvili. Well worth a look.

Another of my all-time favourite places is the Levan Lagidze Gallery at 23 Paliashvili Street – walk in any time after 5pm, they’ll be glad to see you and chances are you’ll catch the master himself working in his studio at the back.

Museums

Don’t miss the excellent Museum of Art and The National Museum, the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts, the Lado Gudiashvili Foundation Hall, and the Museum of Cultural History (aka Art Palace) located in a splendid palace. For something different, there is also the Museum of Soviet Occupation and the Folklore Museum. 

Nightlife

There is a plethora of bars and nightclubs both in and out of the Old Town, as well as Georgia’s renown electronic music scene that has doubled as the means to social change and a greater acceptance of previously marginalised communities. Bassiani is Tbilisi’s best-known techno club and is located at Akaki Tsereteli Avenue – reserve well ahead of time as it gets full fast. For something different, Art-Café Home is an interesting mix of a café and a cocktail club located in a traditional house on the historic Betlemi street and offering Old Tbilisi ambiance.

Day Trips

If you have time for going further afield, hire a local guide who will double as your driver. This is easily done, completely affordable, and well worth the comfort and extra bit of history you will get along the way for there is always more than meets the eye in Georgia.

Kaheti is Georgia’s famous wine region and a place of spectacular natural beauty. Best time to visit is September, at the start of the harvesting season. Start with the picturesque small town of Singagi about 1hr 45min drive from Tbilisi – with pastel houses and narrow, cobblestone streets, it is located atop a steep hill offering stunning views of the valley below and the Caucasus Mountains in the distance. Enjoy a delicious lunch while savouring the view before continuing to any of the many wine trails where you can sample Georgia’s traditional white, red, and orange wines. Many vineyards also offer tours and a brief history of the unique viticulture. Rtveli, a grape harvest festival with feasts and music, takes place late September.

Uplistsikhe, translated as “The Lord’s Fortress” is 1.5hrs drive away from Tbilisi. It is an ancient cave city consisting of several hundred excavated chambers and rooms and is one of the oldest settlements in Georgia, dating back to 2BC. At first glance it looks like an odd moonscape dotted with architectural wonders with influences from Anatolia and Iran. Located on a picturesque riverbank, Uplistsikhe was once an important commercial centre and home to the Kings. Best to see it than read about it – well worth the trip.

Katrine Levin curates art from places less explored. She regularly exhibits new work online and also in London and New York. Her next exhibition, featuring the work of Levan Lagidze, will be in the Autumn in London. www.katrinelevingalleries.com